Lending Club Reduces Interest Rates for Borrowers

This is just a quick note to say that Lending Club appears to have reduced interest rates for borrowers by around half a percentage point. I first noticed this when I logged in to select notes for investment last week, and have seen mention of it elsewhere on the web. Rates now range from a low of 6.39% for those with the best credit to high of 21.64% for the most risky borrowers.

As an investor, I’m not crazy about this change, as I’ll earn a bit less while shouldering the same risk that I’ve always faced. Prospective Lending Club borrowers, on the other hand, should be thrilled with this move. If you’re looking to refinance your high interest debt, now appears to be a good time to do so.

I’m still looking for an announcement to provide some context for this change, but haven’t found anything yet. I’ll update if/when I know more.

Published on February 8th, 2010 - 9 Comments
Filed under: Debt Reduction, Saving & Investing
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Save for Retirement With a Spousal IRA

This is a guest post from Adam Hagerman of Money Relationship. If you like what you see here, please consider subscribing to his RSS feed.

If you’re like most people, you may think that retirement is so far away that it can be dealt with later. The reality is that it is never too early to begin planning for retirement, and there is no better day than today. But some of you out there may be wondering, “How can we adequately save for retirement when my spouse and I only have one income?” Well, you’re in luck, as there are some options available to help you meet your goals.

Spousal IRAs

Whether you are a stay at home parent or simply taking time off work, you should still be taking the appropriate measures to save for retirement. Most individuals who work for a company have the option to save for retirement via a 401(k) or other savings plan.

Even if they don’t have a retirement plan at work, working individuals can save money in an Individual Retirement Account (IRA) because they have qualifying income. But what about those who do not have an income of their own, such as a non-working spouse? This is where the “spousal IRA” comes to the rescue.

A spousal IRA is a special type of account that is funded with the working spouse’s income. Technically, there really is no such thing as a spousal IRA. It just means that a non-working spouse can rely on a working spouse’s income to contribute to fund an IRA. In order to qualify, you must file a joint tax return, and the working spouse must make enough income to fund the account.

Based on current IRA contribution limits, you can contribute up to $5,000 ($6,000 if you are over 50) per year in either a traditional (deductible) IRA or a Roth IRA.

Traditional Spousal IRA

The non-working spouse can contribute up to $5,000 ($6,000 if over 50) to a traditional IRA as long as the working spouse has enough income to justify the contribution. These contributions can be deducted on the joint tax return up to a certain adjusted gross income (AGI) limit. Depending on your income tax bracket, this deduction can result in significant upfront savings.

The deductibility of the spousal IRA begins to be phased out when your joint modified AGI reaches $166,000 and is completely phased out at a modified AGI of $176,000. However, if the working spouse does not have a retirement plan at work, the full deduction can be claimed regardless of income. These contributions grow tax-deferred until retirement. Once withdrawn in retirement, the earnings are taxed at your ordinary income rate.

Roth Spousal IRA

If tax-free growth is more desirable, the non-working spouse can contribute to a Roth IRA. The Roth IRA allows you to contribute up to $5,000 ($6,000 if over 50). Just keep in mind that your contributions will become limited once your joint AGI reaches $166,000 and will be completely phased out once it reaches $176,000 (meaning you cannot contribute to a Roth IRA).

The big advantage of the Roth IRA is that, since you are placing after-tax dollars into the account, they will grow completely tax-free. That means that there will be no income taxes due when you take the money out in retirement.

Taxable Accounts

Although taxable accounts are not the preferred option for retirement saving, they may be advantageous for one income households. Since retirement options are limited for the non-working spouse (i.e., they have no workplace savings plans), a taxable account can be used to supplement retirement savings.

Because investments in this type of account will be typically be held for a long time horizon, they will be taxed at the favorable long-term capital gain tax rates when you liquidate them. Currently, the long-term capital gain tax rate is 5% or 15% depending on your marginal tax rate.

So there you have it. No more excuses. Start saving for retirement today! And remember… You have until April 15th to fund an IRA for last year, so you can still make up for lost time.

Published on February 8th, 2010 - 13 Comments
Filed under: Retirement, Saving & Investing, Taxes
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How to Handle a Missing 1099 Form

Have you received all your tax paperwork? Every year around this time I get questions from people who are missing a Form 1099 and aren’t sure what to do. In case you’re not familiar with the lingo, IRS Form 1099 is used to document various forms of income, including things like:

• Interest earned (1099-INT)
• Dividends received (1099-DIV)
• Cancellation of debt (1099-C)
• Government payments (1099-G)
• Proceeds from broker transactions (1099-B)
• Retirement distributions (1099-R)
• Miscellaneous income (1099-MISC)

There are more, but I’ve hit the big ones above. When these forms are issued to you, the issuer is also supposed to send a copy to the IRS. This allows the IRS to keep closer track of how much money you’ve earned.

There are a couple of things to keep in mind when it comes to Form 1099, however. First, a 1099 is generally not required unless you earned more than $600 from that source during the year. This doesn’t mean the income isn’t taxable, just that they payer doesn’t have to issue a 1099. Second, payments to a corporation don’t require a 1099. Thus, if you’re self-employed and have incorporated your business, you might not receive any 1099s.

What if you didn’t get a 1099 form?

Assuming that you’re truly due one or more 1099s, you should have received them by now, as the deadline is January 31st. If you are expecting one and it hasn’t shown up, your best bet is to contact the payer. If it still hasn’t shown up by February 15th, you can call the IRS at 800-829-1040.

Note that you don’t really have to have all of your 1099s to file your taxes, as you don’t usually need to attach them to your return. As long as you can accurately piece together your income (as well as any income taxes withheld) from other sources, you can just go ahead and report it without documentation.

If you file your taxes and later receive a 1099 that you had forgotten about, you’ll have to amend your return using IRS Form 1040X.

Published on February 5th, 2010 - 5 Comments
Filed under: Taxes
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Pursuing Financial Independence: Now What?

Yesterday, Matt challenged readers to figure our their financial priorities. That post generated some interesting responses, including one in which a reader wondered: “Now what?”

I’m at the “now what” stage. We have paid the car off, and a fat savings account. We do not plan to pay off the house because we want to move soon. Not sure that the house will sell for the amount we paid. 401(k) is funded.

This is a great question. We spend a ton of time and energy focusing on getting out of debt, building an emergency fund, funding our retirement accounts, saving for college, paying off our mortgage, etc. But once we get a handle on these things, what’s next?

It’s not uncommon for people to be so focused on their daily lives that they don’t give any serious thought to what the future holds. In fact, if you ask around, you’ll find that a lot of people will flatly state that they’re pursuing “financial independence” without really knowing what they mean.

This is actually an issue that fellow blogger JD Roth tackled about a year ago when he wrote the following about the so-called “third stage” of personal finance:

I’ve reached a place of financial security. My income is good. I save and invest. I don’t spend frivolously. Now I find myself in the enviable position of having to decide: Should I decrease my workload, or should I use some of my income to invest in the things that make me happy?

Unfortunately, JD didn’t have the answer, and neither do I. In fact, I’ve struggled mightily with this issue. Should we charge ahead toward the finish line (retirement) trying to get there as quickly as possible? Or should we slow down and enjoy the ride?

There are no easy answers. Moreover, just as Matt pointed out when he wrote about financial priorities, the “right” answer will vary from person to person. With that in mind, I’d like to hear your thoughts…

Stepping back and taking a look at the big picture, what are your long-term goals?

Published on February 5th, 2010 - 18 Comments
Filed under: Planning
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Determining Your Financial Priorities

If my time as a personal finance blogger has taught me but one thing, it would be that personal finances are like snowflakes… Seemingly similar, yet utterly unique. While there are a few fundamentals that should be used to create a solid financial foundation, there is seldom a blanket solution for everyone all the time.

A healthy challenge for each of us

In response to my recent article on when you should start investing, FCN reader John laid out his financial “order of priority.” John’s rundown moved me to prioritize my own specific plan, publish it here on FCN, and challenge you to do the same.

We all have unique circumstances, but because financial fundamentals remain consistent, we’ll likely see a lot of similarities sprinkled amongst the difference between our individual plans.

In writing this article, I have two specific goals. First, I want to challenge everyone reading it to prioritize their financial plan. Second, I want to highlight the fact that unique circumstances sometimes call for deviations from well accepted “best practices” such as Dave Ramsey’s baby steps.

My financial order of priority

Before giving you my ordered list, I should briefly touch on our giving strategy, and also outline our 75/25 method of debt reduction and savings contributions we adhere to throughout most every step.

• We always give away at least 10% of our pretax income.
• 75% of our discretionary income (i.e., after living expenses, etc.) is applied to high interest debt reduction (post tax.)
• 25% of discretionary income gets evenly distributed among our liquid and retirement savings accounts (post tax.)

Once we have given, paid the bills, and divvied up our cash into our budgetary envelopes, all remaining money goes toward savings, debt, or interest on debt. Below is our current road map of financial priority.

1. High interest debt repaid. For us this means around $4,200 in a Lending Club debt consolidation loan that was used to pay off credit card and auto loan debt.
2. Finish building emergency fund to one month of expenses. (if not already achieved via our 75/25 method)
3. Repay 2nd mortgage. This is not our next smallest debt, but rather the one with the next highest interest rate.
4. Repay my student loans. Again, this loan carries our 3rd highest interest rate.
5. Repay my wife’s student loans. Here I deviate from the highest interest plan adhered to earlier and opt to pay this lower rate loan off prior to repaying our 1st mortgage.
6. Finish building emergency fund to six months expenses. (if not already reached via our 75/25 method)
7. Max out tax sheltered retirement savings. This includes a 401(k) and 403(b) (mine and my wife’s, respectively), both of our IRA accounts, and possibly other tax sheltered accounts we may have in the future (like a SEP-IRA.)
8. Repay first mortgage. If all goes according to plan, this will be our last debt and will work to pay it off early using all discretionary money remaining after step 7.
9. Savings for children. At this point, we have no children (yet), and see our freedom from debt as being more beneficial than worrying about contributing to their education. As time goes by, however, we will start saving thinking about branching out into things like a 529 college savings plan.

What about you?

Now that you know our plan, please share yours. While certain details of your approach might clash with ours, that’s okay. It’s not imperative we agree on every little detail and, in fact, what’s right for me might not be right for you. The important thing is for each of us to have a written plan in place that is tailored to our specific needs.

So… What is your financial order of priority?

Published on February 4th, 2010 - 13 Comments
Filed under: Saving & Investing
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Lending Club Update – December/January Performance

It’s been awhile since I’ve provided a Lending Club performance update, so today I’m going to be covering what’s happened in the past two months. As they say, no news is good news…

As of February 1, I’m rocking a 10.23% net annualized return on a portfolio that is currently composed of 233 notes. You can see from the graph below that my performance is currently right around average. I’d be thrilled if this keeps up.

Regular readers know that I’ve had one default thus far, which was a byproduct of my initial “high risk,” auto-selected portfolio. I’ve had one other loan in that portfolio go late, though that borrower is not on a payment plan and has been meeting their obligations.

In contrast, all of the loans in my “low risk,” auto-selected portfolio are current. The same can be said of my hand-selected portfolio, which is how we’ve invested the bulk of our funds. If you’re curious about how I select notes, check out my Lending Club loan selection criteria.

If you’ve been investing with Lending Club, I’d love to hear the details. How long have you been doing it? How many notes do you have? How do you select them? And how has your performance been?

Published on February 3rd, 2010 - 14 Comments
Filed under: Saving & Investing
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2010 Outlook for Mortgage Rates

This is a guest post by Tim Manni of HSH.com. Tim is the author of HSH’s daily blog, which concentrates on the latest developments in the mortgage and housing markets. If you like what you see here, please consider subscribing to his RSS feed.

Are you at all concerned about where mortgage rates are headed as we roll into 2010? If so, it’s understandable since many analysts have predicted rates to rise as the year goes on.

While there’s still some uncertainty surrounding the future direction of mortgage rates, it’s safe to assume that rates will rise in the absence of the Fed’s mortgage-backed securities (MBS) purchase program. As evidenced by the statement from the very latest Federal Open Market Committee Meeting (FOMC), the Federal Reserve maintains that their purchase program will expire at the end of the first quarter.

A quick history lesson

As a strategy to lower conforming fixed rate mortgages and to promote stability in the housing market, the Fed announced a program on November 25, 2008 that was designed to purchase $500 billion in Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac MBS. By early 2009, the Federal Reserve decided to purchase an additional $750 billion in MBS in order to keep mortgage rates low.

The Fed’s influence on rates

By March 31, 2010, the Fed will have spent $1.25 trillion to keep conforming rates at or near historic lows. By our reckoning, the Fed’s involvement in the mortgage market brought conforming fixed-rates down perhaps 0.75% below where they would be absent the program. This means that we expect interest rates to rise somewhat when the program concludes.

By how much rates will actually rise will depend on whether or not private investors will be in a position to buy these investments. How strong that private demand will be is still uncertain at this time. It’s best to plan for at least some increases in interest rates as the end of the Fed’s program approaches, and for some period after the March 31 deadline.

While some analysts expect an immediate increase of up to a full percentage point in rates when the Fed decides to stop buying agency MBS, we’re not among them. We think that any rise in rates would be accompanied by a reduced demand for mortgages, which in turn would serve to somewhat temper any upward rise in rates.

Here’s why: The Fed’s purchases are serving to help keep rates low by absorbing MBS supply that the private market cannot or will not buy. When the Fed exits, the additional supply might overwhelm remaining demand, causing a rise in interest rates. That rise in rates would strongly curtail refinancing (and possibly some homebuying) activity, limiting the amount of new MBS supply the private market will need to absorb. This falloff in new MBS supply means that rates might not rise as much as some fear, since the private market may be able to more easily digest it.

Back to “Normal”

During 2010, the mortgage market will transition from almost-fully-government-supported to one once again driven by the private market to a much greater degree. As markets return to “normal,” so too will mortgage rates, which, for the early portion of 2010, should still remain among the best seen during the past 50 years. However, barring a double dip to the recession, borrowers should have no expectations that rates will remain at multi-generation lows throughout the year.

Broadly, we expect 30-year fixed-rate mortgages to hang around the 5% mark during the first quarter of 2010, as support programs (MBS purchases and the homebuyer tax credit) remain fully in force. After that we’ll start the transitional period described above and, for planning purposes, borrowers should expect rates to rise one-half to even a full percentage point higher than where they are now.

Rates for the rest of the year are likely to be more economy- and inflation-dependent. With continued economic healing expected, pressure will build for the Fed to raise their Federal Funds rate and remove certain supports like the TALF and the TSLF. Absent any resumption of these programs, rates will nudge closer to 6% than 5% for the final two quarters of 2010.

Will yesterday’s failed loans continue to distort the market? Will Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac’s evolution cause rates to rise or fall? Will lending standards ever ease? You can get the answers to these questions and more by consulting HSH.com’s “2010 Outlook for Mortgage Rates and the Mortgage Market.”

Published on February 3rd, 2010 - Leave a Comment
Filed under: Mortgages
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Reducing Your Automotive Expenses

I don’t know about you, but having a car has become more and more of a necessity for us. After considering our options, it would be impractical for us to become a one car family, or to rely on public transportation. We are, however, intent on reducing our expenses, so we’re trying to cut our transportation costs.

Aside from carpooling, there are a number to reduce our automotive expenses. Today I’m going to highlight some suggestions that will hopefully save you some money.

Saving money on gasoline

Saving money on gas is a big concern for us. My husband is in the habit of saving gas receipts and dumping the information into a spreadsheet. He’s therefore able to track and see his gas mileage and spot trouble. For example, we noticed that I needed a tuneup when my car’s mileage dipped lower than normal.

Your behavior behind the wheel can also help improve your mileage and thus save money. “Hypermiling” was a popular term when gas was $4/gallon and everyone was trying to cut down on fill ups. The term basically refers to driving in a more fuel efficient way, though some practitioners take it to the extreme. For most drivers it boiled down to a few simple changes when they’re on the road.

• Track your mileage. Take a page from my husband’s book and record your miles driven and gallons burned after every fill up in a mileage spreadsheet.
• Drive the speed limit. Life in the fast lane isn’t always better, as your mileage drops dramatically at high speeds.
• Reduce fast acceleration and braking. By maintaining a relatively steady speed, you can waste less gas. Anticipate the traffic and lights ahead and coast if possible. If you’re driving a distance on a relatively flat highway, consider using cruise control to help you maintain a fuel efficient pace.
• Turn off your car to reduce idling. I was surprised to learn that if you’re going to be idle for more than 10 seconds, it pays to turn off the car and restart it later. While I’m not comfortable doing this at a red light, it might be useful for those waiting to pick up their kids from school.

Saving on car insurance

Another big expense with owning a car is having enough insurance to cover it. Over the years, we have found ways to save money on car insurance.

Shop around for the best deal. It’s amazing to me how effective shopping around can be. There can be a huge difference between insurance companies for the same coverage on the same car. When I shopped around for car insurance, I discovered that by switching companies I could save $40/month — a huge savings for a college student.

See if your memberships can get your a good deal. We really saved money with this tip. After doing our regular, semi-annual price shop, we checked our Costco membership and found a policy for about half of what we were paying. We’ve also taken advantage of the free towing and roadside assistance that they offer.

Maintaining your car

My husband and I are thrilled that we don’t have any car payments. We’d like to make this situation last as long as possible, so we’re doing our best to keep our cars in good condition. The good news is that it’s possible to do some minor checkups and car maintenance yourself. Not only will you save some money, you’ll also learn quite a bit about your vehicle.

• Air filters: A clogged air filter can decrease your fuel efficiency, so check it out whenever you get a tune up.
• Clean the car inside and out: Not only does this improve the appearance of the vehicle, but you can use it as a chance to see if there is any rust or other maintenance problems developing. Having a clean car may also help reduce your urge for a new car that you can’t afford.
• Fluids: Checking and filling your fluids yourself is a great way to keep your car running smooth while saving money.
• Tire pressure: This is a common tip for saving gasoline, but it’s not a big win according to Edmunds’ tests. Regardless, underinflation can wear out tires quicker and become a serious safety issue.

If you’re not a handy person, then by all means spend some money on a trustworthy mechanic. Either way, having regular check ups on your car can improve the life of your vehicle and save you money at the pump.

Replacing your car

Eventually, even a well maintained car will break down and you’ll have to find a replacement. Having a car replacement fund allows you to get a car without having expensive financing.

Open a high interest savings account specifically for your car replacement fund. We’ve used ING Direct for our savings for the last couple of years. If you already have an account with them, setting up a sub-account takes less than 5 minutes. Having a separate account reduces the chances of you dipping into it before your next car purchase.

It’s also a good idea to automate a deposit into your car savings account every time you get paid. Have the transfer go from your checking account into your savings account immediately after getting paid. If you don’t, you might spend the money instead of saving it. If you can, aim for saving a car payment ($250-$350) into your fund each month.

Any other suggestions?

I’ve shared some of my favorite tips, and I hope that they help you reduce your car expenses. If you have any tips, please share them as I’m hoping to stretch our transportation dollars even further.

Published on February 2nd, 2010 - 15 Comments
Filed under: Automotive, Frugality
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OptionsHouse 100 Free Trades Promo Extended

This is just a quick note to let you know that the 100 free trades at OptionsHouse promo has been extended through the end of April. In case you missed it the first time around, here’s the deal:

New customers are eligible for this special offer after opening a new OptionsHouse account with a minimum of $3,000. You must apply for the commission-free trade offer by inputting promotion code FREE100 when opening the account. New accounts receive 100 commission-free trades for each stock or option trade executed within 60 days of funding the new account.

The short version: new customers only, $3000 minimum, promo code = FREE100

After you use up your free trades (or after they expire in 60 days), you can make stock trades for $2.95/each and options trades for $9.95/each. I’ve never used OptionsHouse, so if you have an opinion, I’d love to hear it.

Published on February 1st, 2010 - Leave a Comment
Filed under: Saving & Investing
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My Lending Club Loan Selection Criteria

I’ve had a few people ask me about how I go about selecting Lending Club loans, so I thought I’d write something up for all to see. Back when I was first testing it out, I built two test portfolios, one composed of “high risk” loans, the other “low risk.” In the time since then, however, I’ve started manually selecting my loans.

Getting started

For those that aren’t familiar with Lending Club, I thought I should start from the beginning… Not surprisingly, you get started by logging in. From there, simply click the “Invest” tab along the top.

This will pull up a screen that offers you three different “auto-invest” scenarios: More Conservative, Moderate, or More Aggressive. There are a couple of things to note from this screen…

For starters, you can click on the “More Options” tab to get a slider that gives you access to a continuum of strategies. Next to that is a button labeled “filters.” Click this button gives you access to a wide variety of filters that allow you to set specific investment criteria.

Those options are all well and good if you’re comfortable with auto-investing, but I’m not. If you’re looking for more control, look no further than the “Build a Portfolio from 117 Notes” link over to the left.

Selecting your filters

Once you decide to build your own portfolio, you’ll want to develop a set of custom filters to rule out loans that you deem unacceptable. The good news is that you really only have to do this once, as you can save your filters.

Filters can be accessed over in the sidebar of the “Browse Notes” screen. Though they’re all collapsed, you can see the primary filters that I use in the picture below.

Setting up your filters

If you’re intent on selecting your loans by hand, you’ll need to learn how to effectively filter out the loans that don’t interest you. The following is a rundown of how I set up my filters.

• Inquiries in the last 6 months. This filter can be set from 0-10. I limit it to 3, as I’m not interested in lending money to people who appear desperate to borrow.
• Delinquencies (Last 2 yrs). I set this one to zero. In reality, I won’t lend money to anyone that has a delinquency on their credit report (ever), but Lending Club doesn’t have a “no delinquencies, ever” filter. Thus, I use this one to pre-filter and then I double check by hand.
• Min length of Employment. This can be set between 0-5 years. I’m looking for stability, so I require 3 or more years in their current job.
• Max Debt-to-Income Ratio. Note that this is not a typical DTI calculation in that it doesn’t take housing expenses into account. On the first pass, I typically limit this to 10%, though I’ll sometimes relax it to 15%.
• Exclude loans already invested in. Lending Club loans sometimes take awhile to get completely funded, and I don’t want to accidentally invest in the same one more than once, so I check this box.
• Public Records. I exclude all borrowers with a public record on their credit report. Fortunately, Lending Club has an absolute filter for this one, so I don’t have to review them by hand.
• Month since last Delinquency. As noted above, I don’t want to lend to someone with a delinquency on their record, so I set this to the most stringent setting (60 months or more) to get rid of as many as possible.

Once you have your filters set up, click the “Save” link near the top. You’ll now be able to quickly and easily filter the current crop of loans whenever you come back (by clicking the “Open” link).

Manual review

While the filters above do a good job of filtering out the least attractive loan requests, I next do a quick manual review before investing. Here, I’m looking for two main things…

As noted above, I’m not willing to invest in anyone with a delinquency on their record, no matter how long ago. Thus, I quickly scan through the loan requests and rule out anyone with a delinquency. The good news is that only a few such loans are left after running the filters outlined above.

Next, I compare the monthly payment on the requested loan to the borrowers gross monthly income. If it’s more than 10%, I pass. There’s nothing magic about 10%. It’s just an arbitrary threshold that I’ve selected to make sure the loan payments won’t be a huge burden to the borrower.

While this sounds like a lot of work, it’s really not. If you click on the title of the loan (after filtering), it will expand to reveal more information. In order to efficiently review the loans, I click on each title (one-by-one), eyeball the delinquencies and payment-to-income ratio, and then collapse anything that isn’t acceptable. That leaves me with a slate of expanded, candidate loans from which to select.

Other considerations

In my experience, the above process knocks out the around 75% of the listed loan requests and it only takes a few minutes. From here, I follow my gut. One big thing that I do is to avoid business loans. In general, small businesses have a high rate of failure, and I don’t the added risk.

Other than that, I take look at what the loan is for and ask myself if the details add up. Borrowers are asked to include a loan description. Some do, and some don’t. If they can’t be troubled to explain why they need the money, I pass. If their reasoning doesn’t make sense, I pass. If a lender has asked them a question and the answer doesn’t make sense, or if the borrower has evaded part of the question, I pass.

Another common sense test is whether or not the request is consistent with the available information about the borrower. For example, many people request money to refinance credit card debt. In such cases, I compare that amount to the revolving debt on their credit card. If they’re requesting a bunch of money and don’t have much in the way of revolving debt, I steer clear.

Closing thoughts

While I haven’t been at this for a long time (less than a year), I’ve had a fairly good experience thus far. I’ve had one loan (from my auto-selected, high risk portfolio) go into default. That being said, all of my “low risk” loans are being paid on time, as are all of my manually selected loans.

Could I get away with using the auto-selected portfolios? Quite possibly, but I like having a bit more control, and I’ve managed to streamline my loan selection process to the point that it doesn’t take too much time. If Lending Club added a bit more flexibility to their filters, I could do it in even less time.

Published on February 1st, 2010 - 12 Comments
Filed under: Saving & Investing
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